Weather weighs on October sales

By: Leonie Barrie - 7 November 2011 18:42

Growth in US same-store sales appeared to cool in October as weather and economic malaise weighed on retailers, putting extra pressure on businesses as they transition into the crucial holiday season. Indeed, sitting between the back-to-school spending rush and the all-important shopping fest that lies ahead, it is probably not surprising the month's sales growth slowed to 3.9%, according to figures released last week.

Retailers have put the blame on several factors, including unseasonably warm weather curbing demand for winter apparel early in the month and a snowstorm in the north eastern US at the end of October keeping shoppers at home.

UK-based online fashion retailer Asos, meanwhile, plans to focus its energies on its international business - revealing that its overseas sales are worth more because they are exempt from VAT and are skewed towards higher-margin own label lines. The company has just booked a 66% hike in underlying pre-tax profit.

But Limited Brands, which operates the Victoria's Secret, Pink, Bath & Body Works, La Senza and Henri Bendel stores, has sold a controlling stake in its Mast Global Fashions apparel sourcing division to New York based private equity firm Sycamore Partners. There are plans to expand the unit, which will be spun off as a standalone company, leaving Limited Brands to focus on its intimate apparel, beauty and personal care lines.

On the footwear front, a World Trade Organization (WTO) dispute panel has largely backed a complaint by China that anti-dumping duties imposed by the European Union (EU) on certain leather footwear imports breached global rules. But while the panel said the anti-dumping duties were inconsistent with the EU's obligations under the WTO, it rejected most of China's claims of violation in connection with the original investigation and expiry review.

And Mexican shoe makers have been lifted by news that Tempe Grupo Inditex, the shoe-making franchise of the Spanish fashion giant, plans to triple its footwear production in the country. Meanwhile, other international brands such as Nike, Steve Madden and Puma are also mulling boosting their output in the Guanajuato region, which has become well-known for making high quality leather shoes.

Following a period of turmoil over the past year as apparel retailers, brands and manufacturers grappled with soaring cotton costs, this month's management briefing from just-style looks at the latest fluctuations in the market. Natural fibres and yarns still hold strong, there is talk of a rise in domestic yarn and fibre sourcing in the west, man-made fibres are waiting in the wings, and cotton supplies fuel the struggle between Indian producers and users.

But while China's domestic cashmere market appears to be booming according to figures released at the annual Cashmere World trade show in Beijing - rising costs cause concern. Cashmere experts have also attacked claims that their industry is unsustainable, and have greeted new China cashmere quality standards with scepticism.

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Winter Coats | Bundle Up with These Classic Looks

Photo Courtesy of ShutterstockAs an uncharacteristically early snowstorm swept across the States over the weekend, many of us dug into the closet for a coat and found that the time to update the wardrobe for winter is now. Clearly, if you live in a place like New York City, you need a heavy coat, but even places like Los Angeles get chilly enough for some fashionable outerwear during the winter months. Since nothing says ?I work in a meat freezer? like that nylon parka you refuse to donate to Goodwill, we put together this list of different weights of stylish coats that you will come back to for seasons to come.

theory Wool Pea Coat

The peacoat is a traditional go-to for cold weather for two reasons. They?re usually made of wool, which means that coupled with their long length and snug fit, they can be plenty warm without being bulky. Secondly, the timeless favorite is offered in a panoply of styles. Designers this season have leaned toward the double-breasted look, and away from the military-inspired styles from last season. The clean lines of this coat from theory hints that it will remain fashionable next year when you reach for it, and the charcoal color is a perfect way to segue from your fall browns to your winter blacks.

Andrew Marc Leather Jacket

Every man with any confidence at all should own a leather jacket. Leather can be worn in the rain and snow without the worries of wool, and this American classic never goes out of style. Go old school biker style with one in black, or grab a shade of brown for a contemporary look. Just make sure you don?t fall for a subpar materials, because a cheap leather will not handle rain or daily wear, while the good stuff only gets better with each scuff and season that goes by. The Andrew Marc Leather Jacket has bomber-style front chest pockets and minimalist cuffs, which is good because many times an elastic cuff won?t last as long as the leather.

Joe's Jeans Shearling Denim Jacket

For less inclimate regions, one of the best ways to look good without being overdressed is a denim jacket. Hints of shearling have been huge on this season?s runways, and it just seems to pair so well with denim that we couldn?t resist mentioning one here. Joe?s Jeans puts their premium denim to work on this jacket, which features many of the details they add to their bottoms. A dark blue wash with light fading and subtle abrasions works well with the antique hardware, and a heavy denim is used for durability.

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2011 Newsmakers

The economy did not rebound as quickly as many would have liked in 2011—but it did rebound. The news of the year included clear signs of economic recovery, including the sale of Volcom for more than $700 million to luxury firm PPR. Forever 21 continued its international expansion, setting its sights on China and Europe. Lawmakers finally passed a series of free-trade agreements—most significantly, the agreement with South Korea, which stands to open new opportunities for apparel businesses. Retailers and manufacturers found new business opportunities in social networking, and consumers embraced shopping from the palm of their hands.

It was all part of the news of 2011.

Agenda

Once a smaller satellite show to the longstanding Action Sports Retailer Trade Expo, Agenda has grown beyond its focus on emerging streetwear brands to showcase a mix of contemporary, street, skate and surf brands at trade events in Southern California, New York and Tokyo.

Founded in 2002, Agenda has carefully cultivated a balance between championing independent labels with expanding and providing a space to do serious business for high-profile brands such as Vans and Volcom, both of which are owned by public companies.

Agenda also is reaping the benefits of being the last show standing in its market. In 2010, Action Sports Retailer Trade Expo closed after 29 years as the dominant surf and action-sports trade show on the West Coast. The Class@ASR mini trade show folded that year, and in 2011 its parent show, Class, went on hiatus. In ASR’s wake, the biannual Agenda has been the go-to place for surf and skate fashion, said Bod Boyle, president of Dwindle Distribution.

“Last year, there were options,” Boyle told California Apparel News in August. “[Now,] if you want to meet people from a company, you have to come to Agenda.”

Agenda thrived because it has expanded in a sensible way, said Cody De Backer, brand manager at the 722 Figueroa showroom in Los Angeles, who has been representing brands at Agenda since 2004. “It has always grown within its means,” De Backer said of Agenda, which is owned by Aaron Levant. “It still feels like a community and a family when you walk in the doors.”

Come January, Agenda will have the opportunity to expand that community feeling to its largest venue yet. The Jan. 5–6 run of Agenda will be held within 235,000 square feet of space at Southern California’s Long Beach Convention Center.—Andrew Asch

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2011 in Review

Apparel employment picked up this year—as did port traffic. China remains the No. 1 supplier for U.S. imports, but Vietnam is rapidly catching up.

On the retail front, upscale major emporiums fared well, while results were mixed for specialty chains. And some new stores opened up in some of Los Angeles’ prime retail destinations, while traditional regional malls continued to struggle.

In this issue, the editors of California Apparel News take a look back at 2011 by the numbers.

Major Retailers Rebound

Drama and Solid Sales at Specialty Stores

Jobs Market Showed Signs of Picking Up

Vacancy Rates Down in Many Areas in 2011

U.S. Textile and Apparel Shipments Show Healthy Gains

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2011 Newsmakers

The economy did not rebound as quickly as many would have liked in 2011—but it did rebound. The news of the year included clear signs of economic recovery, including the sale of Volcom for more than $700 million to luxury firm PPR. Forever 21 continued its international expansion, setting its sights on China and Europe. Lawmakers finally passed a series of free-trade agreements—most significantly, the agreement with South Korea, which stands to open new opportunities for apparel businesses. Retailers and manufacturers found new business opportunities in social networking, and consumers embraced shopping from the palm of their hands.

It was all part of the news of 2011.

Agenda

Once a smaller satellite show to the longstanding Action Sports Retailer Trade Expo, Agenda has grown beyond its focus on emerging streetwear brands to showcase a mix of contemporary, street, skate and surf brands at trade events in Southern California, New York and Tokyo.

Founded in 2002, Agenda has carefully cultivated a balance between championing independent labels with expanding and providing a space to do serious business for high-profile brands such as Vans and Volcom, both of which are owned by public companies.

Agenda also is reaping the benefits of being the last show standing in its market. In 2010, Action Sports Retailer Trade Expo closed after 29 years as the dominant surf and action-sports trade show on the West Coast. The Class@ASR mini trade show folded that year, and in 2011 its parent show, Class, went on hiatus. In ASR’s wake, the biannual Agenda has been the go-to place for surf and skate fashion, said Bod Boyle, president of Dwindle Distribution.

“Last year, there were options,” Boyle told California Apparel News in August. “[Now,] if you want to meet people from a company, you have to come to Agenda.”

Agenda thrived because it has expanded in a sensible way, said Cody De Backer, brand manager at the 722 Figueroa showroom in Los Angeles, who has been representing brands at Agenda since 2004. “It has always grown within its means,” De Backer said of Agenda, which is owned by Aaron Levant. “It still feels like a community and a family when you walk in the doors.”

Come January, Agenda will have the opportunity to expand that community feeling to its largest venue yet. The Jan. 5–6 run of Agenda will be held within 235,000 square feet of space at Southern California’s Long Beach Convention Center.—Andrew Asch

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Amy Winehouse Dress Fetches $67,000 at Auction

Photo Courtesy of Island RecordsThe Grammy winner?s red and white dress that she wore on the cover of her Back to Black album just sold for £43,200, or about $67,500, at a London auction, according to CBS News. The Fundacion Museo de la Moda in Chile purchased the dress that was designed by Thailand-based designer Disaya in 2006.

The proceeds from the sale were donated to the Amy Winehouse Foundation that was established by the family to help young people. Amy?s father was at the auction and expressed his excitement for the organization, telling CBS News that his family is "just over the moon and this is a wonderful start to the foundation." If there is one thing that Amy Winehouse will always be known for it?s her style. After all, she had a very distinctive look: beehive hair, cat eye makeup, and retro clothing to match.

Read the full story at CBSNews.com.

Photo Credit: Fred Duval/WireImage.com

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2011 Retrospective: US Textile and Apparel Shipments Show Healthy Gains

Apparel and textile imports were up a little more than 15 percent, totaling $97.2 billion during the first 10 months of this year compared with the same period last year. Those imports have been in positive territory for the last two years after tumbling 13.5 percent in 2009.

China, which sent $40 billion in apparel and textiles to the United States from January through October, still accounts for 40 percent of all U.S. apparel and textiles imports, a rate that has held fairly steady over the years.

But Vietnam has made great strides as an apparel powerhouse, now ranking as the No. 2 supplier to the United States when it comes to clothing. Since joining the World Trade Organization in early 2007, Vietnam’s apparel industry has steadily grown to make apparel the country’s No. 1 export product. During the first 10 months of this year, that Southeast Asian country shipped $7.2 billion in apparel and textile goods to the United States, a nearly 18 percent jump over last year.

India has also been growing its apparel exports, now ranking as the No. 3 provider of apparel and textiles in the United States in terms of dollar value. It shipped nearly $5.9 billion in clothes to U.S. consumers during the first 10 months of this year, a nearly 12.4 percent gain from last year.

Other major apparel producers for the U.S. market were Indonesia, Mexico, Bangladesh, Pakistan and Honduras.

Just as imports were rising, so were U.S. apparel and textile exports as a weaker U.S. dollar helped sales. At the same time, U.S. manufacturers are busy going global and diversifying their markets to Europe, Asia and the Middle East to counter any weakness in the U.S. economy.

During the first 10 months of this year, exports were up nearly 15 percent to $18.9 billion, compared with $16.45 billion during the same period last year.—D.B. 

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2011 Retrospective: Major Retailers Rebound

Retailers and consumers grumbled about the weak economy throughout 2011, but shopping rebounded for more-affluent shoppers, and the rebound helped department stores such as Nordstrom Inc. and Saks Inc. report solid sales in the past year.

Through bullish and bearish markets, Nordstrom has consistently showed strong sales performances. Throughout 2011 the Seattle-headquartered retailer consistently reported same-store sales in the mid-to-high single digits. This secure foundation helped them plan in 2011 for a prosperous future.

In February, the retailer acquired online private-sale retailer HauteLook Inc. for $180 million in Nordstrom stock. In a recent financial document, Nordstrom noted more consumers choose to shop online, so investments in technology would be increased. Physical stores will continue to be crucial to Nordstrom. In March, the retailer confirmed plans to build a full-line store at the Americana at Brand retail center in Glendale, Calif., in 2013. In 2011, the company opened three Nordstrom full-line stores and 18 Nordstrom Rack stores and relocated two Nordstrom Rack stores. It also debuted a unique New York boutique, called Treasure&Bond, whose profits will be donated to charity.

The past year also saw a continued rebound for Saks. The luxury department store suffered through a horrible 2009, when it reported same-store declines in the high double digits. In April 2009, its same-store sales plummeted 31.3 percent compared with the same time in the previous year. Saks Chef Executive Stephen Sadove began a process of trimming stores in 2010 and 2011, which saw the shuttering of Saks locations in San Diego and Mission Viejo, Calif.; Denver; and Portland, Ore.

Like Nordstrom, Saks invested more in its online presence. It debuted an iPad app this year and redesigned its Saks POV portal site. Other plans included opening licensed stores in underserved luxury markets such as Almaty, the largest city in Kazakhstan. The Almaty Saks will debut in August 2012.

The future looks brighter for Saks, said retail analyst Michael Exstein of Credit Suisse. In a recent research note, he said Wall Street has more confidence in Saks because the retailer is showing stronger balance sheets and has produced an assertive push into e-commerce.

In addition, four segments—the New York flagship, its branch locations, its e-commerce and discounter Saks Off 5th—are all gaining strength. However, they are not gaining strength at the same speed. “The Direct and Off 5th segments continue to grow; the challenging branch locations should continue to gradually diminish in their significance to the company’s overall performance,” Exstein said.—Andrew Asch

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Folding Knives, tactical, Collectibles, Knives, tools, Pocket knives

Classified as - Folding Knives, Spring Assisted, Assisted, Knives, collectibles, knife, pocket knives, take down knives, tactical knives, weapons, blades, self defense, buy online, knife store, snap on, tools, utility knives. Please see the variations for model number, picture and price. For purchase of Knives,Swords and Daggers, you must be at least 18 years of age to place an order. It is the buyer's responsibility to check local and state laws in is/her area regarding the legality of the merchandise purchased, as well as to be aware of any related federal laws. We are not responsible for any injury, incarceration or illegal sales of merchandise once an order has been shipped. It is the Buyers responsibility to be cognizant and compliant with state laws, pertaining to the product[s] being purchased. We bear no responsibility, whatsoever, in relation to any legal issues relating to the merchandise.

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The free listing tool. List your items fast and easy and manage your active items. On Dec-17-11 at 21:38:33 PST, seller added the following information:

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Divine Design Celebrates 20th Anniversary

Divine Design toasted its 20th anniversary of Hollywood star power supporting the charity Project Angel Food at its Dec. 6 fund-raising gala at the Beverly Hilton in Beverly Hills. Patricia Field, costume designer for “Sex and the City” and “The Devil Wears Prada,” was among the honorees at the opening-night gala, which kicked off the six-day annual shopping event. —Rhea Cortado

Images from the event may be viewed here.

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Former Baby Phat Licensee Files for Bankruptcy Protection

BP Clothing, the Los Angeles–area apparel company that, until recently, held the license to make Baby Phat clothing, primarily for Wal-Mart, filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection.

The company, located in Commerce, Calif., filed bankruptcy papers on Dec. 12 in U.S. Bankruptcy Court in New York.

BP Clothing, founded in 2003 by Steven Feiner along with Scott London and investment company Steel Partners, listed $57.4 million in assets and nearly $94 million in debt.

The list of creditors reaches far into the apparel and finance worlds. The top three secured creditors were Guggenheim Corporate Funding, owed $58 million; MVC Capital Inc., owed $24 million; and First Capital factors, owed $3.7 million.

Others on the list to collect money included Majestic Realty, operators of the company’s former warehouse. Majestic is in line to collect $272,377. Foyal Garment Co., based outside of Chicago, said it is owed nearly $200,000. Pacific Continental Textiles of Rancho Dominguez, Calif., has a claim in for $145,000.

Tough economic times, falling apparel prices and skyrocketing cotton prices have challenged the company that once occupied a 111,400-square-foot warehouse in Pico Rivera, Calif., until it could no longer pay the $65,000 monthly rent.

Recently, BP Clothing moved to a 13,000-square-foot facility in Commerce and is renting a warehouse to hold its stock, the company said in court papers.

As an example of its financial hardship, the apparel venture rolled out a slew of statistics showing its revenues in fiscal year 2010 declined to $89 million after hitting high marks of $101 million in 2009 and $132.8 million in 2008.

According to court papers, the company has been battling a cash-flow problem that hampered its ability to finance its Baby Phat production. Subsequently, BP Clothing early this year lost its license to sell Baby Phat clothing to Wal-Mart.

Currently, the only label BP Clothing is selling to Wal-Mart is its own Susie Rose line of apparel.

The idea is for the company, which employs 42 people and uses eight contractors, to quickly exit bankruptcy with a plan supported by its creditors, who may end up receiving equity in the company as opposed to receiving money.

“We are attempting to repair the balance sheet and reorganize around the current licenses we own,” said Michael Fox, BP Clothing’s bankruptcy attorney. He noted that the company is still up and running.

According to court papers, “The debtor seeks to efficiently reduce the substantial debt burden that hinders its ability to effectively compete in a competitive market that has been challenged by overall economic conditions. A successful restructuring will allow the debtor to concentrate its resources on generating revenue and expanding market share.”

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Designing With the Stars

Behind-the-scenes of “Dancing With the Stars” with costume designer Randall Christensen and dancer Maksim Chmerkovskiy

With another season of “Dancing With the Stars” coming to a close, viewers have been tuning in not only to see who will win the Mirror Ball Trophy but also...

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Dressing For Your Body Type | Celebrities Show Us How It's Done

Beretta/Sims/Startraks/Jeff R. Bottari/Getty/Jim SmealGetting dressed in the morning doesn't have to be a big ordeal if you're aware of how to dress for your personal body type. There are just certain styles and cuts that aren't going to be as flattering as others if you are trying to force it on the wrong body shape. People magazine took a look at some of Hollywood's hottest celebrities and their various body types to show just how it's done.
If you're tall and thin like Taylor Swift then a corset dress with a singed waist is perfect to give you some curves where you need them. The full, flowy skirt also adds some shape to a thinner frame as well. (Photo Credit: UPI/Terry Wyatt/Landov)
If you are more petite like Nicole Richie, a looser fitting dress in a thicker or shinier material is a great idea. The waist is still accentuated while the low cut neck line and uneven hem line call attention to the right areas. (Photo Credit: Donato Sardella/Wireimage)
If you have a fuller figure like Adele, choosing a darker color palette and embellishments works perfectly. The tea-length adds height and elongates the body along with the three-quarter length sleeves. (Photo Credit: Kevin Mazur/Wireimage)

Visit PeopleStyleWatch.com to see more tips on dressing for your body type.

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Designer Profile: Raquel Allegra

Raquel Allegra is perhaps best known for her avant-garde T-shirts made with elaborate shredding techniques and tie-dyed prints. But in just five...

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Quiksilver Names New Retail Chief

Wall Street reaction to Quiksilver Inc.’s new retail executive, Paul McAdam, ranged from approval to wait and see.

McAdam, an outsider to the action-sports business, was recently named senior vice president and general manager for retail of Quiksilver, one of the major players in the surfwear industry. He succeeded Bradley Sell, who continues to work in retail finance for Huntington Beach, Calif.–based Quiksilver. McAdam reports directly to Rob Colby, president of Quiksilver Americas.

McAdam most recently served as chief executive for All Saints North America, whose parent company is London-based contemporary vertical retailer All Saints Spitalfields.

David E. Griffith follows Quiksilver for Roth Capital Partners in Newport Beach, Calif., and he noted that opinions were still forming about Quiksilver’s new hire from the fashion field.

“Quiksilver definitely has an opportunity to raise the profile of their brands through their direct-to-consumer efforts. But how Paul will fit into that approach hasn’t been communicated yet by the company,” Griffith said.

Jeff Van Sinderen follows Quiksilver for Los Angeles–based B. Riley & Co. He thought that McAdam’s hire showed a willingness to experiment on the part of Quiksilver, which maintains a fleet of 650 stores around the world.

In the past year, Quiksilver has opened new retail concepts such as 585 Boardriders, which opened in November in Los Angeles’ Venice neighborhood. During the summer, it opened a boutique in Newport Beach, Calif., for its Waterman line. But whether these new concepts will grow or stay small has Quiksilver watchers guessing.

“They are testing new concepts in retail,” Van Sinderen said. “Although they look interesting and different, we will have to wait for the results to see what elements of those new concepts will need to be refined and whether some or most of the elements will be used in new stores or remodels.”

Retail will be increasingly important to Quiksilver, said Shaheen Sadeghi, who served as president of Quiksilver in the 1990s and, since 1994, has developed specialty shopping centers.

“I think any global brand with $2 billion revenue has to be in the retail space,” he said. “Typical department stores or mall specialty stores do not have the ability to communicate the brand culture and vibe the way Quiksilver can.”

Quiksilver also has been developing new lines. In September 2011, the company announced its Emerging Brands division, which is developing new looks for the more than 40-year-old surf giant.

Quiksilver reported results for the fourth quarter of its 2011 fiscal year on Dec. 15. It reported fourth-quarter revenues increased 10 percent, to $545 million, compared with the same time in the previous year. Same-store sales for stores in its Americas region increased 16 percent, according to company reports. Quiksilver’s Americas region includes sales made in the United States, Canada and Latin America. The company also has a European and Asian division.—Andrew Asch

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